BRISK Enchufe LGS [DOR14LGS]

Last time, in order for the phenomenon which fires off in the low rotation range to occur, I was able to write the impression that it did not seem to be suitable for my Engine Spec. but when I changed the Plug cord from Norogy Hot wire to NGKRacing cable of the standard of the Uotani Coil The startability also became problem-free.
I was able to feel the effect of improved torque feeling and reduced vibration.
With nology hot wire, the stronger the Spark is, the shorter the Spark discharge time may be.
Moreover, I feel that there is a relation from the fact that the phenomenon that fires off more conspicuously occurred though I tried the ignition strengthening Parts by the high pressure condenser like GunSpark.
The cause of this fire may have been that these areas were not suitable for the characteristics of this Plug.
The ignition needs to be strengthened with Plug, but you may need to pay attention to these parts as well.
I hope this is helpful

This is a tuning engine with high compression piston. The ignition is a full course of MSA with Vup16 and Votani SP2.
The carburetor setting is quite thick to prevent knocking.
It seems to have been incompatible with the wide opening acceleration from low throttle because it sometimes lost fire.
It's nice to have a high RPM once you get into the Power band.
For what it's worth, my SR is most compatible with Normal plug at the moment.
I think it is a Plug that shows its true value depending on the compatibility with the vehicle.

The quality and texture is good, but I don't think I could get that Performance with my SR.
Wiseco's High-Compression Piston and High Camshaft may not be compatible with the tuning engine.
The ignition system is a full course of 16V boosted by Vup16 and MultiSparked by MSA in addition to a Watani SP2.
Although the ignition system has been well taken care of, there is a symptom of loss of fire at wide opening from low opening.
There is no problem at all when I returned to the Normal plug which I had used so far because it doesn't improve even if I reset it.
My guess is that it is about 2mm longer than the normal plug and the ignition position is on the piston side.
I think that the high compression piston was not a good match because of various conditions such as the flow of the mixture, the ignition position, and the shape of the combustion chamber under compression.
I was able to feel the improvement in the performance of the power band over 5000 rpm, so there were some good points, but unfortunately this time I had to keep it…

Status of use:Insufficient capacity of the SROEM additive unit, so it is used in combination with AS Uotani SP2 I do
Feeling:Torque low rpm and high rpm extension is good, it makes driving from the city to the highway fun I think it's the best Match
If you look up Net information on durability, it ranges from 10,000 to 30,000 km
There's also information about poor starting as a sign, and yesterday's poor starting + 10,000+km use situation I replaced it from The image is a comparison of the old and new
I think the reason why the carbon is so bad is because it was difficult to start and I had to cover it up, but there is a gap between the central electrode and the insulator It showed signs of wear and tear, such as being able to
We have determined that it had deteriorated because the starting performance returned after the Plug replacement

Also, the MultiSpark, the selling point of this plug, seems to be a Multi from the insulator marks It is

Although it cannot be pontooned to the OEM ignition system, it was very effective in combination with ignition enhancement The next time is planned for this Plug

Using DOR14LGS with Z1000J. Normal cam with Normal piston It is a spec. like a normal Engine, Votani and CR33
Compared to the NGK that I was using originally, the exhaust sound is more resilient, and the feeling of opening the throttle is also combustion There's a feeling of increased efficiency; I can't feel the vibration in Mild

SRX with a high-compression piston and a super-high camshaft I've used BuRisk in the 600 as well, but until then, I've had about 1300 rpm It was like the lower limit of what Idling can be normally maintained, but it is normal even at 900 rpm I was able to keep Idling in
Also, besides the obviously more powerful exhaust pressure, the sound quality was different

It may simply be that the Plug complements the deviation of the fuel tone, and the tip shape of the Plug may be It may be that the actual compression has changed because it's different, so you can't say with certainty that it's a hack I think it could be an effective setting method
As for whether this Plug for 4 cylinders is reasonably priced, I'm not sure what the previous set up was Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) It's hard to evaluate because it could be done If it's a single cylinder, I think it's possible to try Simple

The shape of the plug is unique, and the plug wrench is made different from the one used in the past and If you have to, or the reach of the screw part is different from the domestic plug Since it is possible that the Piston and the Plug may collide, you need to be careful in that area
Depending on the availability, the terminal may have been crimped and will require a Dora Ring to remove it At the same time, you need to pay attention to what you need